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Thread: another power steering question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default another power steering question

    I've decided it is time to get my truck set up with power steering and power brakes.

    I read some posts on this site that describe using a steering box from a fsj. I've also seen some discussion about using the hydroboost from an Astro van.

    Today I found both items at a local salvage yard and brought them home.

    I started with the power steering box because it is supposed to be a bolt on operation. Well the box is but the stock pitman arm is not in my case. My steering box came off a 1985 Wagoneer. The box fits the frame perfectly but the pitman arm is a drop pitman arm. Also the shaft on the power steering box is smaller and the hole for the tie rod end is smaller.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
    Posts
    1,694

    Default

    Here is a zone post with conflicting info on what year arm to get. Power steering

    I dont know the thread pitch on either the drag link end that fits the FSJ pitman, or the drag ling end on the 715 knuckle. If they are both common thread pitch, like the GM 7/8-18, you can buy the 7/8-18 R-L inserts, and a piece of DOM tubing and have them TIG'd into a conversion drag link.

    I am doing a variation of that with GM parts for my axle swap.

    PartsMike has some good info and parts here:

    http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...rn=204&start=3
    Thanks, George
    Joshua 24:15

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Thanks George. I found that one too but it says I need a pitman arm from a 80-91 Wagoneer. My box and arm are from a 85 Wagoneer. The Pitman arm on the box is about a 4-6 inch drop and has too small of a drag link hole.

    Is it possible I have a drop pitman arm from a vehicle that had a lift?

    I spent about an hour trying to get the arm off the box yesterday and failed.
    The stock arm came off the manual box just fine though.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    The stock pitman arm on an FSJ box is nearly straight, or has maybe an inch of drop at the most. It sounds as if you ended up with a drop pitman arm intended for a lift kit. Not sure why the difference in the tie rod end hole though.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
    Posts
    1,694

    Default

    I agree with Randy, sounds like an aftermarket pitman arm
    Thanks, George
    Joshua 24:15

  6. #6

    Default

    supposedly this is the correct pitman arm for the FSJ box and the M715 drag link. I cannot confirm this myself but it seems correct.
    http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-1315.htm

    Also as far as getting the old arm off, heat will help but you have to be careful not to cook the seals in the box. Worst case, cut a slit in the pitman arm towards the shaft and try that, or just cut it off...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    DON'T heat up the pitman arm!

    Do you have a pitman arm puller? It is specifically designed to remove it and they will usually pop off fairly easily. They are on a taper that is splined. If you don't have the tool, most places like Advanced Auto parts and the like will rent one for a couple bucks.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  8. #8

    Default

    Randy, I'm assuming you are saying not to heat it because it will become brittle? I guess I should have mentioned that I wouldn't plan on putting it back into service after that. Aside from cutting them off, heat is the only other way I have been successful removing them... I have shattered a few pitman arm pullers trying to remove stuck arms, but I'm assuming that being up here in the rust belt has a lot to do with them being so stubborn!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Whenever pulling something on a taper, it needs to be remembered that using the puller by itself isn't usually going to free it. In other words, cranking down on the puller with everything you have and expecting it to come off won't generally work.

    A firm amount of pressure combined with a quick rap on the end of the puller will almost always go a lot further than the previous option. Controlled force. I have definitely had a few things that refused to give up, but they were pretty rare.

    My biggest issue with heating something like that stuck pitman arm is that you are also heating the sector shaft just as hot. It will change or alter its strength to some degree, especially where the threads meet the tapered part of the shaft (which is the smallest and weakest point) plus all that heat will travel up into the box which has a couple of bronze bushings and some quantity of oil.

    As an aside, I deal with a lot of 50's through 70's Triumph motorcycles. They seemed to rely heavily on tapered shafts for the transmission input shaft and clutch hub. I've seen them heated to glowing red, and beat on with a heavy hammer to the point of destruction and still they wouldn't let loose. This was by folks who didn't have the proper puller. Using that puller, it is almost effortless even in the seemingly worst case. Just my experience.
    Last edited by randyscycle; September 13th, 2012 at 10:51 PM.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  10. #10

    Default

    The pitman arm you need is 8" center to center, the one in my truck came from a 78 J10, I also have one from an 83 grand wagoneer, that box also has the right pitman arm on it. The box in my truck came from a 67 wagoneer, that pitman arm was 7.5" and the drag link hole was too small like yours. Hard telling what the history is on your box, perhaps bubba was involved and had swapped in an older front axel in the truck prior to life in the boneyard.

    HTH, Lee

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