Stock foot switch for Chevy Starter

[Barrman]

I know Gunny made it work along with others. How did you guys wire up the foot starter button to a Chevy starter? This will be coming up soon on the project M715 my class is doing for Pistolnut is why I ask.

[Swampthang]

Rather than run the battery cable to it, couldn't you run a small gauge dedicated hot wire to one side and run the other side to the start term. on the starter? Either that or run the cable thru it and bridge the start wire on the solenoid to the cable lug on the solenoid. I have seen it done both ways. The 2nd method has the bonus of being able to kill all power to the starter should it crap out and stay engaged.

[airborne]

Large post on sol gets Alt & Batt, other side goes to starter. Small post on sol marked ign gets wire from ign switch, this also goes to dist, and down to f/s. Other side of f/s goes to post marked sol, on sol.

[Barrman]

Airborne is making the foot switch just a switch like on a normal car.

DAve is talking about using the foot switch just like it was wired stock and having the starter permanently wired "start" with a jumper between the solenoid and the big battery cable post on the starter itself. That is how I would like to do it because all the rest of the wires on the truck would stay the same. But, can the solenoid handle everything at once like that and can the switch itself? I don't image the switch would see anything different than what it was designed for stock. I just wanted to get input in case a gremlin was waiting out there to bite me.

Thanks.

[Swampthang]

I have wired several motorhomes the 2nd way with no problems. They used to be bad about hot start issues with a 454. In fact, this was a field fix from G.M. for a while. You used a ford style solenoid and hard wired the start term to the cable lug. no problems that i remember. Didn't use a push button, but the remote solenoid basically acts as the same thing.

[Barrman]

Thanks Dave. That was the kind of testimonial I was looking for.

[randyscycle]

Why not just run the + battery cable through the foot starter switch, then a small jumper from the + starter terminal to the "s" terminal on the starter? The "i" terminal is just a resistor bypass.

With that, when you depress the foot button, it will send power to the stater and solenoid simultaneosly. This would also eliminate the worry of a stuck solenoid, because once you release the foot button, there will be no power to the starter at all.

[Swampthang]

run the cable thru it and bridge the start wire on the solenoid to the cable lug on the solenoid.

it has the bonus of being able to kill all power to the starter should it crap out and stay engaged.

Didn't I say that?

[Swampthang]

Rather than run the battery cable to it, couldn't you run a small gauge dedicated hot wire to one side and run the other side to the start term. on the starter? Either that or run the cable thru it and bridge the start wire on the solenoid to the cable lug on the solenoid. I have seen it done both ways. The 2nd method has the bonus of being able to kill all power to the starter should it crap out and stay engaged.

As I was saying.

[Barrman]

"Two people seperated by a common language." Yep, Dave and Randy both said the same thing from my perspective.

I started this thread thinking about the starter for Pistolnut. I went to start my M715 last night and nothing happened. I had voltage on the gauge too. My key switch has the cut off for everything except the ignition and solenoid when you put it in the start postion. Everything was cutting out, but nothing was happening. I was only showing 10 volts on the not started in 2 weeks battery, so I threw a charger on it. It fired right up but I still think I need to change the wiring for the starter. Maybe when it cools below 90 about 2200 tonight I might go out and do that.