Al,
I have said it before but WOW!! You do great work...I wish I had your skills!
Glad to see you making progress and doing really neat stuff!
Al,
I have said it before but WOW!! You do great work...I wish I had your skills!
Glad to see you making progress and doing really neat stuff!
Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.
Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!
Thanks Jon.. I have the seats in and the exhaust corrected. I can now hang shocks. I may move the brake line over an inch. Away from any heat. I could loosen it and turn it to get it to favor flexing the other direction. It won't me much to move it. I need to load the truck with some weight and get the pinion angle set, then weld the spring pads and get some lower shock mounts welded on the axle. All that would be left there is a gear change to 4:56 which are sitting over on the table. I have a message to Scassidy to ask how his Yokohama Geolandar tires are wearing. He has not responded. I am curious as they look like they will wear fast with the tread pattern and wide spacing on the tread.
Anyway. Some old rancho's to get my exhaust done were dug up..
I may get back out there today after I watch my Church thing.. God first!
Looking good. I think it might be later in the spring when we come up the way winter is going this year. Are you ready for the cold snap mid week? Stay warm.
I am watching it Glenn. 12 degrees this morning. About three years ago I had 20 below zero for two weeks. Even the gas engines did not want to start. Hopefully that won't happen again. Trying to keep the paint and glues in the shops from freezing is important. And my big TIG welder cooler sprung a leak again. The plastic tank that holds the coolant is very old and brittle. It is cracking again. I am headed to get some windshield bedding glue to coat it with. It is rubber that is super strong. That stuff is impressive. Vent window gaskets?? LOL My exhaust is really done this time. All the hangers got custom made and put on yesterday and it looks good.
EDIT: -27 yesterday... 3 day shop clean under way...
Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; December 23rd, 2022 at 02:03 PM.
I spent 5 days cleaning up my shop. It needs more. But I wanted to do something to the truck. Now somewhere I had posted about the Chevy K30 master cylinder and which port was the front. Online just about everywhere states the smaller port closest to the booster or in this case the hydroboost was to the front and is considered the primary port. . It seems that I found it was opposite for the K30. But I can't find the thread. And I can't remember... Thank you covid... Today I plumbed it out with a new line doing what all the reading said online. I can change it if I need to. I ran out of 3/16 brake line so time to go get more so I can do the back circuit. I did plumb the clutch master cylinder earlier to down below the steering column to a brake line tab with the 5/8 hole. It transitions to a rubber line and connects to the clutch slave cylinder. After line clamps get installed that is done. The roof top tent rack is done except drilling through the rack base to the bed. I got the gussets welded in. Then made clamps out of SS exhaust clamps with a piece of exhaust tubing welded in to hold the tent down on the 1 3/4 dia rack. I will put rubber on the clamps after it is painted. So no serious scratching from the tent clamps. Nice to be back on the truck today.
The gussets.
The new clamps
Clutch hard line lower section.
One brake line to the adjustable proportioning block on the frame.
I sure am liking the hydroboost Eightyduece set me up with. The truck is getting heavy and I will be glad I have it. Thanks again Eightyduece!
Hopefully I can get more done tomorrow..
Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; January 11th, 2023 at 01:42 AM.
2.5 hours of searching for which port is the front brake system. I cannot find the thread where I discovered this master cylinder was different with a diagram. I have searched GM parts sites, forums, you tube, and vintage chevy parts places. I am just about positive the CUCV master cylinder is not like the rest of the world. And the front port is the front brakes. The rear port closest to the hydroboost is the rear brakes.
Does anyone have a CUCV combined with weather good enough have a look under the truck to trace the master cylinder brake lines to the front proportioning block to verify what I am saying here?
I just want to get it right.
BEB28B8A-2B23-4AD3-92B6-BCD485310147.jpg9B168B19-C9A4-4603-8E90-EEC1098B8128.jpgI went and looked at one of mine Al. Does this help?
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
M1009 which is not the same parts as a M1008.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
Yes it does. It supports my front port to front brakes statement. I don't know if the M1009 would be the same, but I suspect it may be laid out the same. I am still hoping to have someone with a M1008 chime in. And or find the info online. I did find one K30 diagram that sure looked like it verified what I am wondering about. But the diagram was poorly done and it was a crap shoot as to the line layout. I really appreciate you doing that Tim. I think I will go get some brake line today. And change what I have done. If it's wrong, replumbing later won't be a big deal. But if anyone can still check a M1008, that would be super. Thank you Tim. Super helpful.
My experience is with disc/drum brake systems the bigger reservoir in the master feeds the calipers as they take more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders.
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