Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: another power steering question

  1. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 97XJSP View Post
    supposedly this is the correct pitman arm for the FSJ box and the M715 drag link. I cannot confirm this myself but it seems correct.
    http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-1315.htm
    That is the correct arm...
    1967 M715 w/ 454 and TH400

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 67M715 View Post
    That is the correct arm...
    I just received that pitman arm from BJ's the other day. It was very quick turn around.

    Just an observation though. I have the stock M715 pitman arm and the BJ's pitman arm side by side and the BJ's arm appears to be upside down.

    I don't think it will matter but it is not an exact match.

    It is about 1/4-1/2 inch longer center to center and the drag link taper end is offset in the opposite direction.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Well I have started the power steering conversion this afternoon and hit another wall.

    I have a power steering box from an 85 Wagoneer. From what I've read it is supposed to be a bolt in operation.

    It is not.

    The box is too long. The top of the box hits the bottom of the frame at the front of the truck. It looks like I'd need to take out at least half an inch of the frame to get the box to bolt in.

    That is not going to happen.

    I've looked everywhere on the box to see a 76 in the casting somewhere but do not see it anywhere.

    Anyone else have this problem before? What did you do to solve it?

    I'm looking for another power steering box now but am open to any other suggestions.


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Richboro,Pennsylvania
    Posts
    363

    Default

    Interesting. I just installed a new box, from Napa for a mid-80's Wagoneer. It is really close to the front crossmember, but it bolts in. The input shaft is smaller, and the line are metric. I re-flared the lines and ordered a new rag joint for the input shaft....but it still bolted into place without problems. Didn't look for the '76' casting.

  5. #15

    Default

    I put a 84 GW box on one of mine and I had to use a BFH and torch to adjust the front frame crossmember. I think it was about a 1/4" though. It wasn't hard, heat spot up and hit a few times and check the clearance. Took about 15 minutes.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    I know it is a saginaw box because I can see an icon that looks like this on it.

    The other markings I can see on it are 2 and 5.




    I am a little apprehensive to be beating the frame there because it looks like it is re-enforced all around. It must be a stress area in the frame?
    Last edited by jeeper; January 6th, 2013 at 09:20 PM.

  7. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper View Post
    I know it is a saginaw box because I can see an icon that looks like this on it.

    The other markings I can see on it are 2 and 5.




    I am a little apprehensive to be beating the frame there because it looks like it is re-enforced all around. It must be a stress area in the frame?
    Just use a torch to heat the spot up and then a big ball peen hammer to put a dimple in it enough for the box to clear. I don't think you have anything to worry about weakening the frame.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Richboro,Pennsylvania
    Posts
    363

    Default

    Don't forget to check the input shaft diameter. My old power steering box of unknown origin was 13/16", the new GW box is 3/4". I can get the stock steering shaft to tighten down on the input shaft, but I am not comfortable with that. I ordered the proper 3/4" ragjoint coupler from Team Grand Wagoneer.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Thanks for the tip. The rag joint fits fine.

    I'm thinking about trying the heating and beating. It looks like quite a bit of heating and beating though.

    I am also thinking about cutting a couple notches first and welding them closed after I get enough clearance.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Lindale, Texas
    Posts
    263

    Default

    i just ground a little on the box to make it fit. it's been a while, but i only had to grind about a 1/4 of an inch off the edge of the box..........al

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


Site Upgrade, Design Modifications & Administrative Support by:
Palm River Enterprises LLC, IT Solutions
President: Tom King, User ID=teking
This site is owned and operated by:
M715 Zone, LLC
President: Jon Schmidt, User ID=brute4c


If you have any suggestions, comments, problems or questions, contact:  brute4c@m715zone.com
Use of this site means you understand and agree to our TERMS OF USE

Copyright Notice:
This web site is subject to the protection of the copyright laws of the United States and other countries. Except for Personal Use Only, you may not modify, copy, distribute, transmit, display, perform, reproduce, publish, license, create derivative works from, transfer, or sell any information obtained from any part of the M715 Zone website without the prior written permission of M715 Zone, LLC. Written permission can only be obtained by contacting brute4c@m715zone.com

Copyright 1998-2024