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Thanks.
Radiator, e-fan and shroud are in. Summit Radiator P/N: 380328
I did the same thing many have already done, moved the passenger side radiator support over to line up with the second hole. I had to push the radiator assembly 2.5 inches forward of the original location to clear the water pump. I also had to drop it down quite a bit so the radiator cap would clear the hood.
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Nothing ground breaking here but I finished up the engine accessories. A rebuilt power steering pump from Borgeson along with the mounting brackets, 80 amp alternator with some modified mounting brackets and I bent up some upper radiator mount brackets. Shot some paint on the front end as well.
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gonna pull good with that bbc
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Spark plugs and wires
I picked up a M715 that appears to have been used as a forestry truck. Problem is they removed the stock spark plugs and wires and did a jerry rig set up with civilian plugs and wires. Is there anyone out that is converting their truck that might part with a set, that they'll not be needing any more?
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Whiterook,
This question is probably better suited for the Wanted Classifieds.
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I was just reading through my build thread to get some inspiration to keep pushing and realized that I never offered up the Solidworks files to those of you interested. I made these models in Solidworks 2013 so shoot me a PM with the file type you’re looking for (.sldprt, .step, .X_T, .igs, .stl, .sat). The file size for the Frame only is 1.5MB.
The obvious disclaimer:
All the measuring was done on this one M715 in particular and does not mean that the model will represent the truck you are working on. I spent more time measuring the features that I cared about and less time on the features in between. I never actually built any parts using the model dimensions only, so measure your own truck prior to making or having parts made.
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I fired up the Big Block without any major issues: a few leaks (water, fuel and oil), nothing that couldn't be tightened up. So far so good, still needs some timing and carb tuning.
I let the Kaiser stretch its legs a little. Looks like I’ll be able to run the rear shocks outboard of the frame rail. I’m using the stock fuel tank in the stock location with a little bit of surgery. The drive shaft crashes into the tank when the suspension articulates.
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I finished up the fuel tank mods and dropped in a new 0-90 ohm sending unit. It took a few passes with the welder to get it to seal, not very pretty but it doesn't leak. That was the most frustrating project to date. After that I hit it with the KBS Fuel Tank Sealer Kit for the belt and suspenders effect.
With the tank in place I realized that I would not be able to remove the fwd leaf spring bolt from that side without dropping the tank, so I drilled a hole through the outside of the frame to allow the bolt to feed from that side.
That area was starting to look like Swiss cheese…
I’m using a Jeep J20 Power steering box with a .750 – 30 spline input. I cut the rag joint end off the stock steering shaft and welded on a Borgeson U joint.
Painted the hood too.
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Not much tech here but I was double checking shock lengths and mounting positions, also measuring for brake lines.
Made some front shock hoops. I bought the bent tube (1.5”x .120 wall DOM) from Ruff Stuff, then cut to length and notched them. I built the mounts of out some 1.5” x .219 wall DOM left over from the tie rod/ drag link project. There are two slots in the frame rail right where the shock hoops needed to tie in, so I added some 3/16” bar to cover them up.
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