Door popper kits?

Has anyone ever considered doing a door popper type kit to solve the "no locks" issue on these trucks? I started looking into how I'd put a standard lock on the door, but I would really rather not drill a new hole in the doors for lock tumblers. A buddy of mine recommended possibly doing a door popper kit. But, those are normally for cars with shaved handles. I dont want to shave my handles at all. But, if I could keep the handles and neutralize the button (unless the popper is engaged) then the poppers would be ideal. I just dont know if thats a thing.

I did a search for "door poppers" and nothing showed up, so that might be indicative of maybe no one has done this for a reason.

dont remember any discussion like that here ever...but interesting idea...

EDIT:
I just reread your original post. And realized I really did not answer your question. I have zero experience with what you are asking, but here is what it would take to put keyed door locks on a M715.
Disabling the door handle plunger would be hard without extensive changes. The thumb button is a shaft that pushes on a big metal flag that releases the latch. Not much room for something in there.


What I originally wrote before the coffee kicked in.

I converted wagoneer doors on my m715 because the original doors were bent beyond a simple repair. I assumed wagoneer doors would be a simple deal. Not so at all as there are some significant features that are missing on FSJ doors. Like wing window mounts inside the door , etc..
I elected to keep the locks as my build thread shows in the last post. For a M715 door you would need to drill and shape a lock cylinder hole. They have a notch to orient the lock and that has to be there. A couple minutes with a file and it would work. Then you would need the spring steel cylinder retainer tab that holds the cylinder in. International doors use the same retainer. FSJ doors have a slot in the outside edge to slide this retainer on to the cylinder from the outside. I would have to look to see if the M715 door shell has this same slot. If no slot you would have to slide the retainer over the cylinder from the inside. Next you would need FSJ latches. Because the M truck latches don't have the square receiver that pivots for the square shaft on the lock cylinder. That pivot has a metal flag that blocks the door latch from releasing the latch. The other thing is if you wanted inside lock pulls up top. You would need the U shaped rod that hooks in the pivot assembly on the inside end and the other end is threaded to stick up through the door skin that you thread a lock pull on to. You would have to drill the hole for this and the grommet too. This U shaped rod slides through a guide bushing that snaps on to a metal flag that sits inside the door. I am not sure at this writing if the OEM 715 door has these metal flags installed. If not then the inner door lock pulls could not be installed without some way to hold that U shaped rod in alignment.
Lastly for lock cylinder grommets, A 1 lb disposable propane cylinder black plastic cap makes a perfect nice looking lock grommet. I put two big washers inside the cap and used a razor knife to shave the cap sides down, then used a grommet punch to cut the inside hole. Then slide the new grommet over the lock cylinder and trim the very small square flag out where the lock cylinder alignment key is. Presto super cheap lock grommets. I just did all this. And now I have locks. Locks that will work perfectly for extremely stupid people who can't figure out how to undo two top snaps...LOL Got a hard top? Then you are set.

http://www.bigscaryjeep.com/Civilian_Doors.html

Depending on how committed you are to getting door locks.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I did find that write up on bigscaryjeeps.com, but I'd like to keep from putting additional holes in the door skin. Thats where the possibility of the poppers came from (and as a suggestion from a truck guy I know). The part Im not quite wrapping my head around, is the ability to use the popper kit AND continue to use the handle button that is there. I believe the way the popper kit works is, there is a solenoid that pulls whatever engages/disengages the button mechanism/rod or whatever that is called. Then the popper pops the door open. So, i guess with the kit installed it makes it so the button cannot be pressed without the popper fob button being pushed.... maybe? I honestly dont know. But then, how would it work from inside the truck?

I'll need to do some more looking into this to try and figure it out.

I may be getting somewhere with this. I reached out to Autoloc, and it sounds like they have just the product for me. Im verifying a few more details, and then I'll order and see what we see. Im not entirely sure this is going to work though. Heres a snipit of how the solenoid interacts with the latch of the door.
Attachment 3831

Having never looked inside our doors yet, I'm not sure how the mechanism works. If its that simple, then this might be the ticket. However, I still dont see how this kit would neutralize the oem button.

I like your idea. It would probably be much cleaner than installing a lock and hasp. :cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MightyMike

I like your idea. It would probably be much cleaner than installing a lock and hasp. :cool:

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Thats the hope. I just do not want to go drilling into the door skin of this old feller, lol.